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Old January 1st, 2014, 07:42 AM
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Default How to Wash Your RO

I came up with this little trick last year and wow was it ever effective.

I run a CDL 1800 with a 7.5hp high pressure pump. These are the steps I do....

1. Good Rinse
2. Fill reservoir
3. Add soap to proper ph (ish)
4. Start RO......with High Pressure pump
5. Let it run for 30 min (ish)
6. Drain and do a small rinse.
7. Fill reservoir
8. Add soap to exact ph
9. Do my wash through the whole cycle

I have had amazing results doing this. What was happening was I would always go in to correct the ph and after 20 min or so and find the ph way down, and the water very brackish. By turning on the high pressure pump it really starts to heat up the water. By the end of 30 min I can not see the bottom of my reservoir tank. Dump that and rinse, do a complete wash and the water is very clean at end of cycle and the ph is still good. I believe by doing this you get the initial caked on crap off pretty easy and then you dump it down the drain rather than just circulating it back and forth. That allows the soap to really work on the crap that is stuck on.

I hope this makes life easier for some of you guys out there.
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Old January 1st, 2014, 08:53 AM
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Sounds simple Taplin. With my new r.o. it didn't come with instructions ! :).

Would you think a single membrane unit would need 30 minutes? Also, you mentioned using the HP pump , I assume you would also run the feed pump as well and replace filter?
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Old January 1st, 2014, 10:41 AM
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correct you will always need the feed pump on no matter what, otherwise the hp pump will burn up. Now as far as time it will be different for each machine, mine doesn't need 30 min to turn the water nasty but I am always still there cleaning other stuff at that time and that is about the time I finish other tasks.
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Old January 1st, 2014, 11:57 AM
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Thanks Taplin great addvise
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Old January 1st, 2014, 12:13 PM
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If you can save the final wash water you could use that for your intial wash the next time and save on chemicals.
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Old January 1st, 2014, 12:14 PM
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Taplin Hill I have the CDL 600 I still haven't gotten an answer as to what to do when the PH is off...........what do you do.
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Old January 1st, 2014, 02:16 PM
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What do you mean exactly by off? Cant get it high enough to start? or it drops after initial start or ?????
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Old January 1st, 2014, 03:53 PM
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Im starting to think you have to join a special secret club that has Decoder ring. You mentioned checking the PH..................OK so you check it and its UP or DOWN What do you do if its UP or what would you do if its DOWNish

I was told to check mine but never did CDL instructions were translated from French to English By an out of work Bulgarian auto worker. My membrane was 92% when I got it used and after my first season of winging it CDL cleaned it and it tested 100% so Ill just keep doing what I do.

I rinse all the time and wash at night let sit till morning. Then I rinse with as much permeate I have. I guess if you asked me the best way to maintain it I would say.
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Old January 1st, 2014, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Taplin Hill View Post
I came up with this little trick last year and wow was it ever effective.

I run a CDL 1800 with a 7.5hp high pressure pump. These are the steps I do....

1. Good Rinse
2. Fill reservoir
3. Add soap to proper ph (ish)
4. Start RO......with High Pressure pump
5. Let it run for 30 min (ish)
6. Drain and do a small rinse.
7. Fill reservoir
8. Add soap to exact ph
9. Do my wash through the whole cycle

I have had amazing results doing this. What was happening was I would always go in to correct the ph and after 20 min or so and find the ph way down, and the water very brackish. By turning on the high pressure pump it really starts to heat up the water. By the end of 30 min I can not see the bottom of my reservoir tank. Dump that and rinse, do a complete wash and the water is very clean at end of cycle and the ph is still good. I believe by doing this you get the initial caked on crap off pretty easy and then you dump it down the drain rather than just circulating it back and forth. That allows the soap to really work on the crap that is stuck on.

I hope this makes life easier for some of you guys out there.
It's the way to go if you want to keep a high membranes performance.

So, a little technical advice about the pressure pumps installed on ''La Fendeuse'' RO. These pumps are designed to run in deep well with a lot of head feet of pressure on the outlet. To be used on RO's you have some carbon shims inside prevent the impellers to touch to the chambers. In high pressure operation, (300 PSI or more) no problem. At low pressure, an extreme force is apply on these shims. If it broke, the high pressure pump will stop working and it will be impossible to start it next time you will have to use it. If it happend, it will cost a complete high pressure pump rebuilt job at the shop.

It's why some modifications can be done to increase the rince and wash RO performance without have to run the high pressure pump. The installation of the bypass valve on the high pressure pump and the parallel wash, rince outlet on columns. It's a pretty cheap modification and you will obtain better results with energy saving because you will not have to run the high pressure pump and you will obtain the advantage of the parallel outlet. The bypass valve will remove the restriction of the non running high pressure pump to the supply pump and the parallel wash, rince outlet will remove the restriction of the 1/2'' concentration valve on the concentrate return. You will be able to use these options on wash and rince operations to be more effective without have to be worried about your high pressure pump.

Mathieu
CDL technical service department

Last edited by Mathieu; January 1st, 2014 at 05:00 PM.
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Old January 1st, 2014, 05:01 PM
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Thanks Mathieu I was hoping you would jump in here. Please don't be bashful we need your expertise.
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