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  #1  
Old March 7th, 2013, 10:21 AM
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Default Bricking How to's-CDL Hobby flat pan...

If anybody has bricked their Hobby unit from CDL,please message me.
Not sure where to start....
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Old March 8th, 2013, 05:29 AM
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Default Bricked now...

Diagram from CDL is for much bigger arch's...still not sure where sand goes.
A firewall is suppose to be present at one third the pan length,which there isn't enough room to cement in...sand is poured in between firewall and stack exit.
Does the sand force heat between flues when using a flue pan?

Mine is a flat pan,18x48....hoping that it works without wall or sand...
Any suggestions welcomed
Thanks
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Old March 8th, 2013, 11:14 AM
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The wall would be in a rig with a raised flue from the sound of your description. The general lack of decent instructions in the maple industry is very frustrating for a lot of people. You're going to want a couple inches underneith your flat pan going back, then taper down at the back to allow more room going into the stack. You can experiment with more / less space and see what works best for you.
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Old March 8th, 2013, 11:02 PM
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Default Questioned the salesman...

Thanks for suggestions mapleack.
I returned to store today, said I had 14 bricks left over and was surprised to find that several others that purchased the same model also had extra bricks...
So, when I returned home, 5pm.. We started boiling, just some fine tuning with arch flue and all should be good...
51 taps, 180 litres sap today.... See what tomorrow brings.

May set extra bricks on slope towards stack , to increase temps... I did notice hard boiling mainly in middle third of pan....is this good? I presume equal front to back is the goal..
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Old March 18th, 2013, 02:31 PM
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Default Hobby Evap by CDL and extra bricks

So, went back to CDL in Lanark. Talked with Steve and I was the third person with same unit to have 10 or more bricks leftover....
I did piece together smaller chunks,just to save cutting full bricks. With the 14 leftover I was able to raise arch by 2 bricks all around, making it easier to clean out the ashes.

I believe CDL Lanark will be reducing number of bricks required to app. 42, instead of 55.

Good to input being put to use.

Peace.
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  #6  
Old March 18th, 2013, 07:23 PM
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Hi Maple Rebel... I know I am too late, but you can find some info here...
http://en.cdlinc.ca/how-to.aspx

I think this thread will help some others.

Have a good season
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Old March 19th, 2013, 09:06 AM
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Default Thanks Sam

I do have bricks in, no firewall. I am thinking of putting one in,as a lot of heat is going up the stack. I'm thinking of one brick on its edge(4.5") high, then put sand in to top of brick , keeping it level until 6-8" before stak exit...this way I can add or remove sand for best operation....sounds a little hit and miss,bu most 'hobbies' require adjustments,right?

Thanks again,
Randy

P.s. always learning...
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Old March 19th, 2013, 12:30 PM
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Hi MapleRebel,

Each setup is different... and like you said, it's a try and learn approach.
If you have a lot of stack, you will have more draft which will give more power in the back of the evaporator and may overheat the chimney.

Using brick is a good idea because it is easy to modify.
Another trick is to add a standard stack damper in the chimney 7'' which can be purchased in any hardware store. This will give you flexibility if you have windy days for example.

For best results :
Use a thermometer in the chimney, this will help you to understand what's happening in it!
Use a damper in the stack to control this temperature.
Study the boiling peak in the pan and modify the chamber accordingly.

Keep us posted with the results and have a good season!
Sam
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