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Old March 30th, 2012, 05:17 PM
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Default Help wanted with homemade auto draw off

Hi I am looking to build an auto draw for next year but I want to know if that parts I have picked out will work before I buy them. For the PID controller I want to use this one http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...products_id=14 with this temp probe http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...products_id=46 and a 3/4 inch honeywell zone valve from a heat system it will be on a 3x8 raised flue evap no ro but eventually I would like to upgrade the valve but I can get this one for free thanks for any help.
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Old March 30th, 2012, 10:22 PM
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I think you can do better on both items. The PID is small--look at the next one down--only a few bucks more, is bigger and has 2 LED readouts-one for the process temp and one for the Set Value. I messed around with one of the former, and I can tell you that I wished that I had both numbers in front of me. As far as the probe, you would probably be happier with one that has NPT (Taper Pipe Thread) on the mounting part. The one you picked has no way of sealing, unless you use a separate compression fitting. Look em over again----
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Old March 31st, 2012, 06:10 AM
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Thanks for the reply I wanted that prob so I wouldn't have to put another hole in the pan so if I go the next size up PID would all he parts be compatible thanks.
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Old March 31st, 2012, 12:02 PM
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I like the probe that don't rely on threads because using the compression fitting allows you to quick change it without unscrewing it. Plus if your temp port is on the draw off box at an angle the probe will always go to the level you set it at. Threaded probes cant be adjusted.
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Old March 31st, 2012, 02:32 PM
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I used the 2362 because it reads .1 degrees F and it also has an on / off mode for a solenoid valve. I belive the pt 100 or (platinum) is the most commonly used. This will read 100 ohms at 32 degrees F.
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Old June 23rd, 2012, 11:08 PM
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Looking for some new ideas for a valve for my auto draw. I was just going to use a solenoid valve off eBay but after looking at a markland I really like the style of magnetic system that they use. I like that it is more compact since the valve works vertically rather than horizontal. If anyone knows where to start looking or what they are called let me know.
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Old June 24th, 2012, 01:22 AM
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They use a hydronic zone valve that is made by Honeywell. I have a SS solenoid 1" that was about $54.00 on Ebay that works fine. BUT it does gum up and drip from niter chips. Because it closes so fast it will capture dirt. They are using modulating valves that open and close with a longer cycle time and they work better with RO's and big rigs. You can also go with a larger valve and still throttle it down with a Small ball valve to keep the draws more constant.
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Old June 26th, 2012, 12:45 PM
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I looked up the zone valve and that's not the one I'm thinking of. Maybe its a upgrade for them but it is a SS tee with a valve that sits up about 6 inches above it.
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Old December 29th, 2013, 10:13 AM
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I'm looking to build a auto draw off. My question is, what do you who have built one, or have purchased a manufactured one have for a valve? Our if someone has a auto draw off they don't want, or it's broke and doesn't work, I might be interested in it.
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Old December 29th, 2013, 10:49 AM
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Jim from Smoky Lake Maple Products makes a auto draw off and has a nice electric ball valve that is on my list of must have's. I use a 1" solenoid valve I got off Ebay but it has its short coming's. It has never failed but its open or closed no modulation.
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