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Old February 7th, 2017, 04:12 AM
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Default Best valve to use on my auto draw

Have a homebuilt auto draw with a solenoid valve ( diaphragm) that works like crap. What is a good motorized valve to use ? SS 110v wired direct to pid controller.
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Old February 7th, 2017, 07:53 AM
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Smoky Lake and Marcland sell the motorized ball valves they use in their units. I think Bascom also carries the Marcland motorized ball valve too.

You could probably find them cheaper on Amazon, Ebay, etc. I think you will want the power-open/power-close type with 3 wires (110V). I have heard the capacitance-close valves are not as reliable.
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Old February 7th, 2017, 08:28 AM
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I would argue that the best valve to have with any autodraw system is the backup manual valve that you can open when the autodraw doesn't work for some reason.
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Old February 7th, 2017, 10:02 AM
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I would argue that the best valve to have with any autodraw system is the backup manual valve that you can open when the autodraw doesn't work for some reason.
Yes. Definitely need that too. I have a throttle valve and also a manual ball valve. If the draw off stuck open, I can close it off.
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Old February 7th, 2017, 10:12 AM
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Yes. Definitely need that too. I have a throttle valve and also a manual ball valve. If the draw off stuck open, I can close it off.
Our auto draw has three valves. There is a t that comes off the pan than a ball valve and then the motorized valve. On the other side of the t there is just a ball valve. The valve in front of the motorized valve let's you shut off the plumbing in case of a failure. like if it sticks open. The other ball valve lets you open the system if there is a failure. Also the valve in front of the motorized valve is just cracked open during operation allowing for just a small stream of syrup to come out at a time to control the flow in the pans better.
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Old February 7th, 2017, 02:10 PM
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Jim. I have a capacitor close ball valve. As long as you keep it clean and dont draw off on short cycles, it has worked fine. If you can, go with a powered open and powered close (with capacitor close backup )
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Old February 7th, 2017, 03:21 PM
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Jim. I have a capacitor close ball valve. As long as you keep it clean and dont draw off on short cycles, it has worked fine. If you can, go with a powered open and powered close (with capacitor close backup )
I had a long conversation with Bob from Marcland. He said if the auto draw is not a modulating valve, which is not what we are talking about here, you should be able to fine tune things to get it to open 40-50 times per hour. He said this makes lighter syrup, floats operate better, and makes the whole evaporator run smoother because there are no large draws. He also said it can take some time to get to this level of stability. I will be trying it.
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Old February 7th, 2017, 03:30 PM
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I maintain continuous draws so it is not an issue. For me, the valve is only to stop a draw if it gets below syrup. (Once or twice a boil)
From experience with a capacitor close valve before i went to continuous draws, if the valve is not open long enough on each draw, the capacitor will run dead and you will be left 3 hours into a boil with the valve half open. And it will not close.
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Last edited by sapaholic; February 7th, 2017 at 04:06 PM.
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