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Old December 3rd, 2014, 06:15 PM
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Default AOF Heat Exchanger

got these back from the shop. more build photos as we progress.
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Old December 3rd, 2014, 10:20 PM
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ok dumb question here, but what is the purpose of these??
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Old December 3rd, 2014, 11:44 PM
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Default PMRC - Combustion

Making a version of this sketch
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Old December 5th, 2014, 11:14 AM
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Default Heat exchanger

Cool, is that stainless? mine is coming along slowly but in reg. steel. How big are the tubes, it looks like you are running them down through the neck down. I am hoping to make some progress to over the holidays
keep us posted. Thanks for posting pics
Robert
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Old December 5th, 2014, 04:21 PM
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Default The Math

Running a 2ft x 10ft arch with an end collar having an exit area of 73.53 in2. The transition goes to a 10in smokestack having an area of 78.54 in2.

Needed to figure out the equivalent amount of open area in tubing so I looked at two options:

24 to 25 - 2in ID Stainless Steel Tubes (design layout accommodated 25)
94 to 100 - 1in ID Stainless Steel Tubes (design layout accommodated 96)

I am also limited on height in the shack so the overall length of the tubes had to be 5ft. The sketch from PMRC - Guidelines for the Improvement of Combustion Efficiency for Maple Producers shows the use of 2in boiler tubes up to 16ft in length common. Because height was a limiting factor I needed to maximize the high pressure air's exposure to the heat of the exiting flue pipes. The maximum exposure can be realized by looking at perimeter.

96 - 1in ID Tubes have an approximate perimeter of 301.44in and an area of 18086.4in2 @ 5ft
25 - 2in ID Tubes have an approximate perimeter of 157in and an area of 9420in2 @ 5ft

By going with 96 - 1in ID Tubes @ 5ft I achieve the same exposed surface as 25 - 2in tubes @ 9.6ft. So I'm 60% of the way to the recommended exposure.

Finally to maximize the exposure, a series of baffles will be placed every 6in along the length of the tubing to force the air completely back and forth across the tubes 10 times. So I am hoping this last step and by going with a larger high pressure blower (McMaster-Carr) will help my achieve the needed results.
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Old December 7th, 2014, 07:12 PM
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Wow that looks like a project! I have seen that sketch before but never seen anyone build one.
Good luck.
Regards,
Chris
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Old December 9th, 2014, 12:42 AM
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I have a few questions what is it for and what dose it do
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Old December 9th, 2014, 02:30 AM
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Preheats the air over fire air using excess heat in the exhaust stack. This allows the overfire air to ignite quicker and not cool the firebox as much.
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Old December 9th, 2014, 08:34 AM
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Paul I see a drawing that is round and your bulkhead plates are square. My assumption is your gong to build a square tube heater and then go to your transition piece then to the round flue stack

What temp do you plan on getting from the flue gases? Maybe I should ask what is the CFM you plan on blowing into the arch (not the cfm of the blower)
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Old December 9th, 2014, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haynes Forest Products View Post
Paul I see a drawing that is round and your bulkhead plates are square. My assumption is your gong to build a square tube heater and then go to your transition piece then to the round flue stack
YES!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Haynes Forest Products View Post
What temp do you plan on getting from the flue gases?
My assumptions are from what what I see on the drawing by Thunderbolt Research Corp. Last year my stack temps were similar to the 750-1000 F (flue gas from arch) so if I can get the 300-600 F pre-heated air to the air over system (again from the drawing) I would think this would be the last step in making my arch as efficient as possible (10-15% from the multiple tube heat exchanger) and 15 to 25 minute loading times.

Currently without the air over fire (under fire only) I am loading that locomotive every 5 minutes with 2 year old dry ash split to the size of my wrist. That's my least favorite part of the operation. I just want to make it as fun and efficient as possible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Haynes Forest Products View Post
Maybe I should ask what is the CFM you plan on blowing into the arch (not the cfm of the blower)
Not sure what I'll be blowing into the arch as far as CFM's. Ideally I would like to go with the articles recommendation on installing a barometric damper above the multiple tube heat exchanger and then monitor a draft gauge at the front of the arch to fine tune the blowers. Then every time you fire up the arch you know that the blower controller dial needs to be turned the exact same amount each time to achieve your desired results.
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