Classified Ads Photo Gallery Message Boards Sugarbush Directory Sugarmaker Journals Live Chat News & Events
  #1  
Old July 2nd, 2014, 04:32 PM
Dennis H.'s Avatar
Contributing Member
Producer
 
Location: Elliottsburg, PA
Number of Taps: 222
Join Date: Nov 2011
Journals: 7
Photos: 7
Posts: 664
Thanked 117 Times
  View my photos   Read my journals
Default Auto Drawoff

I finally got this built. I have been planning this for a year or two but never built because I just could not justify building one with the slow time frame for my drawoffs.
But now that I plan on running an RO this coming season I have this feeling that I will be drawing off more often.

Most of the stuff was very easy to find thru a few companies that I regularly deal with. The biggest pain was finding the motorized ball valve. There are a few options but it came down to price, cost of shipping and in my case a little luck stumbling upon the one I got.

Here is a parts breakdown.
Aubers Insturment
SYL-2362 PID Controller 43.55
PL5300 12" PT-100 RTD Probe and fitting 37.00
RTDCON RTD Panel mount connector 3.75
OUTS1 120V Panel mount socket 1.95
INR1 120V Panel mount receptacle 1.95
FLBUZ 120V Flashing buzzer 7.86
SW4 Switch 2NO 2 Position 5.99 x 2
SW3 Switch 2NO 3 Position 5.99
IND-1 Led Indicator Blue 3.45
Shipping & Handling 8.22
Total 125.70

Bascoms
3/4" SS Ball Valve 20.00
3/4" SS Street elbow 4.00 x 2
3/4" SS Short Nipple 2.00 x 3
3/4" SS T 5.00
Shipping & Handling 10.00
Total 49.00

All Electronics
3 Position Terminal Strip 1.95
6 Position Terminal Strip 2.00
Shipping & Handling 0.00 (needed to get other things for other projects)
Total 3.95

Ebay
3/4" 120V SS Motorized Ball Valve 79.99

Lowes
Plastic box 14.00 (I think, I got this box awhile back)

Grand Total for the entire project 272.64
There may be a few small things but I can't think of anything else that I had to buy.

Another note is that I mounted the control box on a rod that fits into a socket on the pan rail of the evap, I can now rotate it so that I can see the front while standing either to the side of the evap or in front at the fire door.
I also had to make a new front to the control box. I had it all made up and after about a week I noticed that there was cracks running from each switch and indicator. I guess once I screwed the cover back on to the box there was just enough stress in the cover to cause it to send out cracks, so I used a piece of sheet aluminum that I had laying around and made a new cover. I think it looks a lot better this way so I am kind of glad it happened.
Attached Thumbnails
Auto Drawoff-autodrawoff1.jpg   Auto Drawoff-autodrawoff2.jpg   Auto Drawoff-autodrawoff3.jpg   Auto Drawoff-autodrawoff4.jpg  
__________________
Lapierre Junior 2x5
w/Hood and Pre-heater by Smokey Lake Maple
5" Modified Filter press by Daryl For a Gear pump
2 Membrane Homemade RO
Hardy's Maple Syrup on Facebook
Reply With Quote
The Following 4 Users Say Thank You to Dennis H. For This Helpful Post:
Gratefulmaple (January 22nd, 2017), jimsudz (July 2nd, 2014), maplemark753 (July 3rd, 2014), Schiefe4 (December 17th, 2014)
  #2  
Old July 3rd, 2014, 06:21 AM
Lew Lew is offline
Member
Producer


 
Location: smithville flats, ny
Number of Taps: 3500
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 39
Thanked 12 Times
 
Default

Is this a proportional drawoff or a open/closed drawoff?
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old July 3rd, 2014, 10:11 PM
Dennis H.'s Avatar
Contributing Member
Producer
 
Location: Elliottsburg, PA
Number of Taps: 222
Join Date: Nov 2011
Journals: 7
Photos: 7
Posts: 664
Thanked 117 Times
  View my photos   Read my journals
Default

No it is not a proportional style ball valve. But it is a 120vac motor on it. That helped not needing a power supply.

I maybe can redo the plumbing of the setup hanging off the float box but I will not gain any thing by doing it.
I wanted to have a throttling valve first then the motorized ball valve. I also wanted another valve to allow draining without having turn the auto draw off on.

I used a tri clove fitting coming out of the float box so it can be quickly removed for pan removal. I have a tri clove on the other float box so I can also quickly flip the pan.

I will have to take a look at it more to see if I can rearange the valves and fittings for a better final setup.
I will have to modify my draw off pan stand though, if will be too tall with the valves hanging below the float box. Probably have to lower it about 3".
__________________
Lapierre Junior 2x5
w/Hood and Pre-heater by Smokey Lake Maple
5" Modified Filter press by Daryl For a Gear pump
2 Membrane Homemade RO
Hardy's Maple Syrup on Facebook
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old July 4th, 2014, 08:09 AM
Contributing Member
Producer
 
Location: Greenwood WI
Number of Taps: 210
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 674
Thanked 126 Times
 
Default

Dennis,
Have you managed to get the controller programmed? I fiddled with these a bit, and find that to be the most difficult part.
__________________
Larry

210 vacuum taps plus the neighbors
2X10 Intensofire clone
Smoky Lake pans that ROCK!
16X24 syrup shack
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old July 4th, 2014, 02:16 PM
Dennis H.'s Avatar
Contributing Member
Producer
 
Location: Elliottsburg, PA
Number of Taps: 222
Join Date: Nov 2011
Journals: 7
Photos: 7
Posts: 664
Thanked 117 Times
  View my photos   Read my journals
Default

Yeah I got it programmed.
Not sure what brand you are using. I had to enter 0001 to enter into program mode.
Once there it was only a matter of setting the different parameters.
I set the set value to 217 for now, that may change from day to day due to the weather.
Set AH1 to 222, that is when the alarm comes on.
Set AL1 to 220, that is when the alarm turns off after coming on.

That is the very basic settings, I will adjust the others later. I may find that I want the valve to stay open I little after the temp drops back below the set value. I found on my evap when drawing off syrup it goes a degree or two above syrup so I will usually let it run a little below to compensate for the heavy syrup that was drawn off.
__________________
Lapierre Junior 2x5
w/Hood and Pre-heater by Smokey Lake Maple
5" Modified Filter press by Daryl For a Gear pump
2 Membrane Homemade RO
Hardy's Maple Syrup on Facebook
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old June 10th, 2015, 07:56 PM
Member
Producer


 
Location: upstate NY
Number of Taps: 40
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 27
Thanked 2 Times
 
Default

How did the motorized valve work this past season?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old June 11th, 2015, 03:16 AM
Dennis H.'s Avatar
Contributing Member
Producer
 
Location: Elliottsburg, PA
Number of Taps: 222
Join Date: Nov 2011
Journals: 7
Photos: 7
Posts: 664
Thanked 117 Times
  View my photos   Read my journals
Default

It worked great, had no problems what so ever.

I liked the slow open and the slow close. I used a ball valve right before the motorized ball valve to adjust the amount of flow. I like to run it on the slower, longer drawoff side of things.

You can find cheaper motorized ball valves out there than the one I found, but I wanted a 120 VAC with plug.
If you are ok with DC valves they can be found cheaper.
__________________
Lapierre Junior 2x5
w/Hood and Pre-heater by Smokey Lake Maple
5" Modified Filter press by Daryl For a Gear pump
2 Membrane Homemade RO
Hardy's Maple Syrup on Facebook
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old June 11th, 2015, 06:44 AM
Member
Producer


 
Location: upstate NY
Number of Taps: 40
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 27
Thanked 2 Times
 
Default

1 2" to 1 1 4" 2 Way SS304 Motorized Ball Valve NPT BSP Electrical Ball Valve | eBay

Is this what you have? Temp rating is a little low. So is the one I'm using now.

It looks like the CR2-02 would be the correct option. Agree? I also have 120 VAC for control power.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old January 22nd, 2016, 12:05 PM
Schiefe4's Avatar
Contributing Member
Producer
 
Location: Frankenmuth, MI
Number of Taps: 680
Join Date: Oct 2014
Classified Ads: 8
Photos: 4
Posts: 306
Thanked 44 Times
  View my photos   View my ads  
Default

Dennis,

You seem to know a lot about electrical stuff. I've attached a wiring diagram for a motor driven stainless steel ball valve. Do I need a controller with two (2) control relays to open at a certain temperature and then close at a certain temperature?

I believe the valve type is power open and power closed.
Attached Thumbnails
Auto Drawoff-image.jpg  
__________________
Photos
2012
2013
2015

Last edited by Schiefe4; January 22nd, 2016 at 01:46 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old January 22nd, 2016, 06:28 PM
Dennis H.'s Avatar
Contributing Member
Producer
 
Location: Elliottsburg, PA
Number of Taps: 222
Join Date: Nov 2011
Journals: 7
Photos: 7
Posts: 664
Thanked 117 Times
  View my photos   Read my journals
Default

One relay will work as long as it has both a normally open and normally closed set of contacts.

It looks like the valve that you have shown needs power to open and also power to close.

So a relay with Normally open and normally closed set of contacts will do the job. Connect power to one side of each contact on the base of the relay and then hook the other side of each contact to the proper connection on the valve.

Just be aware that with the valve if for what ever reason that you would lose power the valve will not be able to change positions. Where a spring return and valves with capacitors in them will close whenever power is removed.
I do see that the one you have shown does have a capacitor but I believe it is being used as filtering not for power to open or close the valve
__________________
Lapierre Junior 2x5
w/Hood and Pre-heater by Smokey Lake Maple
5" Modified Filter press by Daryl For a Gear pump
2 Membrane Homemade RO
Hardy's Maple Syrup on Facebook
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Dennis H. For This Post:
Schiefe4 (January 23rd, 2016)
Reply  

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

 

The total tap count of our members is now: 2,753,283

Copyright ©2009~2019 Sugarbush Info