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Old December 11th, 2013, 12:03 PM
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Default Arch build input wanted

I have been bartering and saving up used metal and am now putting together my arch. It will be able to handle a 2x12 syrup/flue pan combo eventually. The idea is to build it once with room to put a bigger pan on down the road. This is what I have in mind before I weld it up and would appreciate any input. Inside rail to rail will be 22" so there is plenty of over lap. height to top of rail will be 33", fire box height of 24" by 42" deep. Top rail will be 2&1/2 angle 3/16 thick. I any building a heat exchanger stack which will use 10 feet of used 10" pipe (1/4 thick wall) with 7-3" pipe for exhaust to go up through. I'm sheeting it with 12 gauge steel sourced from collected oil tanks. Insulation will be 2" thick and I am still working on design for routing AUF AOF.
Any info would be appreciated, Thanks
Robert K
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Old December 11th, 2013, 01:23 PM
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You need to keep the outside dimension of the arch rails NO MORE THAN 25 13/16. 25 3/4 is better yet. No matter what dimension iron you use, keep the outside to the above width because you can run into interference with the flue pan fittings and clamps. So your inside dimension with 2 inch angle should be no more than 21 3/4.
PM me if you need further explanation....
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Last edited by lpakiz; December 11th, 2013 at 01:35 PM.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 01:24 PM
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My only concern would be (and this is not from personal experience) Is that 12' long on only a 2' wide arch would be getting the back of the flue pan to boil. I could be wrong most of the major manufactures only list 2' arches up to 8' long. Just my 2 cents.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 01:25 PM
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Welcome to the site Robert good to see you jump onto the site. First thing that jumps out at me is the expandable part. Do you propose to throw a piece of metal over the opening and call it good or brick it and then build in a bulkhead at the 8ft length and expand as needed? First I would start with the evap over the firebox as starters. Ill let better minds jump in on the firebox/combustion chamber forced air build.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 01:41 PM
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Mike and Robert K,
I speak from first hand experience. Maybe because it is an Intensofire clone with lots of combustion air, my 2 X 10 with eight foot flue pans boils violently throughout the whole length, from the door to the stack. And yes, there is only 2 feet left for flat pan, but it works GREAT! Approx 100 GPM, no preheater. I wholeheartedly recommend more flue pan and less flat pan. Absolutely no problem to boil sap into the hood gutters.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lpakiz View Post
Mike and Robert K,
I speak from first hand experience. Maybe because it is an Intensofire clone with lots of combustion air, my 2 X 10 with eight foot flue pans boils violently throughout the whole length, from the door to the stack. And yes, there is only 2 feet left for flat pan, but it works GREAT! Approx 100 GPM, no preheater. I wholeheartedly recommend more flue pan and less flat pan. Absolutely no problem to boil sap into the hood gutters.
100 GPM! are you using wood or uranium for fuel ?
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Old December 11th, 2013, 05:25 PM
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My old 2x8 seemed like 100 GPM..............gallons per month
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Old December 11th, 2013, 05:46 PM
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Whoops! That would be GPH. Sorry......
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Old December 11th, 2013, 05:56 PM
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i would personally make the firebox deeper. on mine i feel thats the one thing i would change if i built it again. it is 3x12' with 8' raised flue and firebox is 60'' deep. i feel with how i built mine if i made the firebox at least 72'' deep it would be more wood efficient and faster boilng rate with that much more cumbustion space to burn the gases under the flue pan. although i cant complain about the current efficiency i was averaging 120gph all season with hood and preheater.i will have to double check my records but i burned 10 cord (128 cu ft cord)slabwood made 205 gal finished syrup and averaged 1.8% sap. i am pretty shure that it will run much faster but i didnt feel like cutting more wood last season to find out.
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Old December 11th, 2013, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haynes Forest Products View Post
Welcome to the site Robert good to see you jump onto the site. First thing that jumps out at me is the expandable part. Do you propose to throw a piece of metal over the opening and call it good or brick it and then build in a bulkhead at the 8ft length and expand as needed? First I would start with the evap over the firebox as starters. Ill let better minds jump in on the firebox/combustion chamber forced air build.
Haynes
I hope to use my existing 2x3 drop v-flue with a 2x4 continous flow syrup pan untill my son and I max it out. Son is 5 so it might be a few years. I will brick and insulate the arch and hopefully use a piece of metal with insulation attached on the rest, untill needed. Still working out details. Kinda problem solving abit as I go. I have spent last year reading posts and getting as much info as possible. Still nothing beats experience, I respect the info from those who have been boiling and trying different things.
Thanks for the reply, Robert
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