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Old January 28th, 2013, 08:03 PM
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Default oil fired fire box size

Does anyone know if there is a formula for the size of a firebox to the size of your pan. I also read somewhere that if your oil gun is firing it should cast a light on both pans. Something about radiant heat or something. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Lee
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Old January 28th, 2013, 09:19 PM
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Welcome Backyard good to hear from you. Well if your starting from scratch its a whole different story than if you have a wood burning arch with pans. When I ordered my pans from Lapierre Waterloo small I was told there are a few items to strive for. Because my new pans were raised flue I didnt need a big deep arch in the flue area. I was going with oil from the start so everything is fire blanket.....all sides, bottom and transition ramps. My pans are 3X10 7 ft of them being flue. SO I was told to have the cumbustion chamber about 32" top to bottom and as wide as the finish pan. I was told to have the back ( opposite the oil gun) to come up vertically about 18" then angle back under the flue pan 18-24" You want fire blanket or brick about 3/4 from the bottom of the flues. A few things are important you want the oil gun flame to hit the back of the chamber and swirl around and then fourced up and between the flues. On a raised flue pan the gases need to be forced up between the flues and then travel back. When it gets to the back of the arch near the flue stack it needs to travel down under the end of the pan and then out the flue stack.
Drop flues pans have a different design for the flue pan section because there isn't a front and back shield that allows the sap to mix in the pan.
As far as having fire all the way down the arch I have never seen it. NOW that doesn't mean it cant on some rigs. Just because you don't see flame doesn't mean its not hot.
You can call me any time at 303-810-5501 so I can explain what I have written because its so dang confusing from the start. Please don't take everything I'm saying as the ONLY way things will work. I got lucky I had a guy send drawings that I did follow but also changed to a point.
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Old January 29th, 2013, 09:08 AM
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Haynes.....can you explain how flat pans work with oil fired?? How do they work?? I need to make some changes to mine and need advise..
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Old January 29th, 2013, 02:22 PM
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I for one wouldnt use oil for a heat sorce for flat pans. I believe you would waste a lot of heat. NOW you can use a smaller size oil burner and differant nozzel patterns to get most of the heat to the pan surface. Oil works great with both raised or dropped flues, Keep in mind that a wood fire WITHOUT a blower depends on the natural draw of incoming air burning and expanding flowing past the pans. A oil burner/gun blasts the heat against the pan surface heating it. Blasting 50,000 BTU at a flat pan that can only obsorb 20,000 is a big waste of fuel.
I have seen some older oil guns that used low RPM motors for the blower that did a nice job heating flat pans.
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Old January 29th, 2013, 03:01 PM
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I built my evaporator from the start as an oil fired unit. This is my 3rd season using it. Never had a problem with it just wondering if i tweak it a little bit if i can get a little more evaporation. I made a mistake when i said the flame would travel all the way to the bottom of the pans. Some where I read that the way oil tranfers heat is through radient heat and where the light from the flame should light up the whole bottom of the pan. In a factory unit is the firebox straight or is it angled towards the back of the flue. Haynes, thanks been on the site from the begining just haven't been active. Trying to help all the newbies on the other site. Like you helped me years ago. Lol Thanks Lee
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Old January 29th, 2013, 06:00 PM
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Thanks back yard. I have a ramp at the end of my combustion chamber also. Do you have plans to put a flue set up?

Last edited by Haynes Forest Products; January 30th, 2013 at 12:46 PM.
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Old January 29th, 2013, 08:04 PM
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My flue pan has tubes in it similar to a hot water boiler. Is the back side of your fire box straight or does it have an angle to the ramp. thanks Lee
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Old January 29th, 2013, 08:14 PM
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Any pan with fire under it will make syrup. We had a antique 3 x 10 Warren flat pan system with a big oil burner retrofitted where the wood doors were. Not very efficient. We could make about 1.5 gallon per hour. Oil was cheap and we just kept boiling:)
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Old January 30th, 2013, 12:01 PM
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just got off the phone with Domm & grimm in Quebec canada..they said the dimensions are correct on the fire box but the ramp is wrong..They told me to measure from the bottom of the fire box to the bottom where the fire nozzle enters the fire box.what ever that measurement is ,is what the starting of the ramp should be plus two inches of insulation..I measured mine its 8"..the starting of the ramp should be 8" plus 2 inches of insulation not what i have ,4" ..so i need to go up 4" plus 2" insulation..then the fire will hit the wall then continue up to the pan up the ramp to the stack
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Old January 30th, 2013, 07:17 PM
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Ihuntbear, Thank you, the info you and Haynes gave me will be a big help. I think my fire box is too large. Not sure i want to rip into my evaporator the weather today was 59 degrees. It may be a early year in southern NH. Lee
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