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Old December 27th, 2012, 06:40 PM
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Default New Evaporator

My new pans should come either tomorrow or next Wed. so I thought I would finally post some pictures of the 2 X 6 that I built. The tires are just on a shaft run through under the firebox. It is removable and only to move the Evap. out of the garage to fire it up. Some of the things That I did different than what I have read are using unistrut for grates. They should work the same as angle iron and will hold more ash to insulate them.
I also used some left over Stainless steel to protect the blanket in the firebox as I had it laying around. I will see how it holds up, if not I'll get some firebrick. I cut the bottom out of a steel drum and cut that in half and welded it together for the stack base. Seems good enough for now but I will have to upgrade next year. Hopefully I can do a test boil in the next week. This is addicting, my father even made a small evaporator out of a wood stove to do some batch boiling.
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New Evaporator-evap-1.jpg   New Evaporator-evap-3.jpg   New Evaporator-evap-7.jpg  
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Old December 27th, 2012, 07:00 PM
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Looks good Bob... Now all you need is a Big Block V8 to drive it in and out of the garage.
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Old December 28th, 2012, 10:12 AM
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I just got my pans. They look great except that both of them are V flued. The Flues are 1 1/2 inches deep and 2 1/2 inches apart. Will I be able to use the syrup pan as is? The flues make it the same surface area as a 30 by 24 pan. If this will not work, could I raise the flue pan about 1 inch so the syrup pan would be 1 inch deeper (say 2 1/2")?
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2012 - 10 taps cooking over fire pit

2013 - 136 taps 2 X 6 homemade evap., homemade water jacketed canner

2014 - 262 taps on bags and tubing to pails
Homemade hood and preheater
2015 - 335 taps 7 inch short bank filter press, 100 taps on 3/16 and 3 shurflo pumps
2017 Smoky Lake 2 x 6 drop flu pan set, hoods, water jacketed bottler and concentric exhaust system
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Old December 28th, 2012, 12:55 PM
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Little confused as to what you are asking. Put some pictures up also, that makes everything easier.
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Old December 28th, 2012, 01:18 PM
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you may be able to, but i think it would be risky, it would probably work better if you ran the front pan deeper like you were saying, did they mess up the pans, or did you want both of them to be flue pans?
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Old December 28th, 2012, 01:31 PM
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Basically I got 2 Flue pans. It was a misunderstanding on the fabricators part. They were built as a favor for a reduced cost by a contractor we deal with. One is 4 foot and the other is 2 foot. The V flues are only 1 1/2 inches deep. The 2 foot is divided into 4 sections and the 4 footer has one divider. If I added 1 inch square tube under the 4 foot pan it would make the 2 footer (syrup) run 1 inch deeper. I would like to finsh on the evaporator but do not want to burn the front pan. I would like to try and make this work and not have to buy a seperate syrup pan. I am just looking for options. I could also draw off light and finish on a propane stove if I need to.
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2012 - 10 taps cooking over fire pit

2013 - 136 taps 2 X 6 homemade evap., homemade water jacketed canner

2014 - 262 taps on bags and tubing to pails
Homemade hood and preheater
2015 - 335 taps 7 inch short bank filter press, 100 taps on 3/16 and 3 shurflo pumps
2017 Smoky Lake 2 x 6 drop flu pan set, hoods, water jacketed bottler and concentric exhaust system
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Old December 28th, 2012, 01:57 PM
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your best bet if you want to finish on the evaporator, would be to run it deeper, maybe only raise the rear pan a half inch
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only 17 yr old at school making syrup!

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Old December 28th, 2012, 04:35 PM
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I would try to use it as is. Run the front pan deeper, draw off light and finish on a secondary heat source. I would also be leary of niter build up at your draw off with the v flues acting as a catch basin. I would take it easy the first couple times running it on real sap till you have all possible glitches worked out.
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Old December 28th, 2012, 04:47 PM
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I think edr has the problem with flues in a syrup pan correct. I would be sweating bullets with a flue pan and syrup being made in it. Niter trap is all I can think of. Even finishing off light syrup I think it will lead to a problem. I have never heard of anyone trying to do this and I would have to guess that is the reason why. Is it possible to have the flues cut out and flat stock welded in its place or have the bottom cut out and replaced? Personally I would not try to run it as it sits. Maybe throw it up on classifieds and use the money for a new syrup pan. Really hate to say all that as I know disappointment is last on anyones list.
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Old December 28th, 2012, 06:20 PM
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If you do use the front pan as is, an its reversible, don't be afraid to switch sides. If you can only draw off on one side I think you will have problems as mentioned by 3rdgen and myself previously.
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